Total list of routes from village Verhny Baksan

To the foot of the Aviatzia Peak

(The 84th km of the Baksan highway – the Kurmychi glade -the Vostochny glacier. Kurmy – the Baksan highway. Expansion – 16 km, duration – 5 hours.)
The tourists visit the solitary Kurmychi glade, located away from the traditional tourist paths and get acquainted with the Vostochnye Kurmy glacier.
The hike starts 2 km higher the Verhny Baksan village (84th km of the highway, 1550 m). On the right slope of the Baksan glade is the broad glade grown with a forest. It is a mouth stage of the glade. From that stage the Kurmychi river flows off in beautiful waterfalls. The tourists go by the haymakings to the beginning of the path, which mounts along the right bank of the Kurmychi river like a streamer. In an hour leave into the pendulous glade. Here is the end of the forest. Before them is a green hill – the rest of an ancient ice moraine. Behind the hill are the numerous moraines and the ridges of the Adylsu range. On the right two there are picked out two similar acuminate rocky summits – the Aviatzia Peak and to the west – the May the 1st Peak. From the ridge between them hangs down the glacier. On the left there is a powerful icefall Vostochnye Kurmy, fixed between the ridges of the Aviatzia Peak and rocks of the VMF Peak. Above the icefall is a vast ice plateau.
Further one should go along the right bank of the river. The herbaceous meadows step-by-step are replacing by stone deposits. In front of the tourists is an awesome icefall with numerous ice steps and cracks. Along the smooth steep tongue in the daytime there is a frequent stonefall, that is why it’s not recommended to approach to the tongue of the glacier too close.
The way from the Baksan glade takes about 3 hours. To the highway return on an ascent way.

To the climbing camp “Djailyk”

(The Verhny Baksan vil. the Adylsu river -the climbing camp “”Djailyk” – the Verhny Baksan vil. Expansion – 22 km, duration – 6 hours.)
The route gets acquainted with the glade of the Adylsu river from the upper reaches of which opens the most beautiful panorama of the Main Caucasian Range.
Along the glade is made the motorway. By the bus stop “Verhny Baksan” (1500 m) from the highway departs the road into the glade of the right tributary Baksan-Adylsu. In a kilometer from the highway the river Adylsu goes out the canyon, sawed in the rocks (a mouth step). The bypass of the mouth step is called the Doktorsky pass. In the 70s here are constructed an automobile jack and a stairway by an altitude of 60 m consisting of 400 steps.
Behind the jack begins the glade grown with a pine forest. Having crossing over the bridge to the right bank the tourists approach to the Vodopadnaya river. A tourist parking is equipped here. Further the road twists above the Adylsu. Some sites of the forest piled up by avalanches are met. Approximately in a walk hour the glade extends, the road passes on the left bank of the river. On the right on a course opens the glade Djalovchat where is constructed a jack for the amateurs of the mountain skiing.
Above the river is clenched by huge boulders. Behind a canyon the road goes on the broad flat leftbank (3 hours from the Verhny Baksan). In front of it the massif Ullutauchan opens in all its beauty, above the road on a green site the monument to the perished climbers is established.
Soon the path enters the forest again, intercepts the Klumkolsu river leads the tourists to the climbing camp “Djailyk” (2300 m). Just behind it on the bank of the Adylsu river there is a good survey site from which the passes Garvash (a steep saddle to the left of Ullutau) and the Metiysky pass are visible. The way from here takes till 4 hours, on the return road it’ll take 2-2, 5 hours.

To the Ullukaya rock

(Verhny Baksan vil. – the Kyrtyk glade – the Ullukaya rock – Verhny Baksan vil. Expansion of -35 km, duration 2 days.)
The route will get acquainted with a picturesque glade of the Kyrtyk river and with with the caves of the Ullukaya rock where the tracks of a habitation of an ancient man are found.
A hike starts in the Verhny Baksan vil. located near a mouth of the Kyrtyk river – a left tributary of the Baksan river.
On the northern outskirts of the vil., in that place, where from a rocky gorge the Syltransu river tears away – a right tributary of the Kyrtyk river, the tourists cross over the bridge and start rising a ridge along a good path, parting glades of both rivers. To the left of the path there are stony tucks, foundations of constructions and small hills. All of that is a medieval town. Before a hike to the Baksan glade the Kyrtyk river flows in a deep narrow gorge. One must traverse a slope high above the river along the path. Further tourists pass several fungoides remains from brown sandstone and then they descend to the bridge. On the right bank not far from the bridge there is a narzan source accessible only at a small water level in the river. Then one must pass to the left bank of Kyrtyk river, grown with bushes and low forest. The path goes above the river, which flows in a beautiful rocky canyon. In a half and an hour of motion from the village the tourists again get over the river again and soon find themselves in a pine forest. Here on the glades it’s possible to find a place for camping, there is a lot of raspberry in the forest. In 45 minutes more pass to the left bank of the river for the last time. The path leads to a cosy coast terrace about a mouth of the left tributary of Kyrtyk – the Zugul river. There are a lot of holes around it. Their inhabitants – gophers – with a whistle hide in their shelters at an approaching of the people. In front of it the glade extends, herbaceous slopes of a port side and a rocky massif Artkol (3880 m) are seen above them. Everywhere are seen summer houses of the shepherds. Large flocks of sheep and saplings of the large cattle are grazing.
The path mounts the port side of the glade. One must go over a channel of small rivers Ullu Artkol and Gitche Artkol. The glade turns west and is narrowing down.
In front of it the Ullukaya rock (in Balkarian – a large rock, 2856 ?) – a summit in southern ridge of the Kyrtyk range. Along all the way channels of old rivers, cleaned watering sites, paths laid with rock, oddments of ancient facilities. It indicates that the man has made himself at home in that glade for a long time.
In 5, 5 hours the tourists reach the narrowing of the glade. The path passes to the river. On its right bank, higher the edges of the forest there is a kosh. It is a reference point. Opposite it are closed from the tourists by the bend of herbaceous slope rocky breakaways of the Ullukai – a purpose of the hike. To stay for a night is possible in 500 meters above, on the terrace of the left bank of Kyrtyk river (2300 m).
From the place of spending the night opens a view of Verhny reaches of the glade with a snow cone of Mt. Elbrus. On the opposite side are picturesque rocks with black falls of the caves.
On herbaceous slopes covered with rocks goes an ascent to a rocky ravine from which outflows a spring. The path leads to an entry into a cave strengthening. It’s partitioned by an odl stone masonry. Around it on the slopes of a ravine there are not deep caves, in which are found trecks of a habitation of an ancient person, and on an inclined bottom flows a clear spring. A little higher of the entry is a narzan source. In some caves one can mount steep screes (up to 35 degrees). It is necessary to be careful. Rockfalls are possilble.
Having examined a cave complex the tourists descend to the camp. The returning to the Verhny Baksan vil. will take about 4 hours.

Syltrankel is a beautiful lake

(Verhny Baksan vil. – the Syltrankel Lake – the Syltran pass – Verhny Baksan vil. Expansion – 30 km, duration – 2-3 days.)
The hike will get acquainted with one of the largest high-mountainous lakes of the Elbrus region.
From the northern outskirts of the Verhny Baksan village begins a rise on a well developed path to the left on a course, onto a vast herbaceous terrace of the mouth step of the glade of the river Syltransu. On the right in a steep rocky canyon flows the river. One must go in the direction of the forest. On the way there are large piles of stones, probably, ruins of constructions. The path enters a pine forest and like a hairpin bend road mounts a starboard of the glade. It breathes easily by fresh tarry air, the silence of the forest is disturbing only by singing of the birds. In 2,5 hours the tourists leave to the tumbled down forest – a trace of winter avalanches, and then they descend a flat bottom of the glade in the middle flow of the river. About the path there are places for a bivouac and a clean spring. On the terrace of the right bank there is a summer house of shepherds.
The forest remains only on the slopes. The path prolongs a rise along the bottom of the glade to a small green spur sectioning the glades of the Syltransu river (on the right on a course) and its small tributary. We mount the spur and traversing its slope we come nearer to the river.
Steepness of the slopes is about 20 degrees. Along the right bank leave for a rocky massif. Going round it on a path, at the left on a course, mount a small herbaceous terrace surrounded by screes – the second step of the glade. Here, at the altitude of about 2600 m, one can pitch a camp. Road from the village’ll take about 5 hours. The river disappears in the rocks for a short while. In front of it is seen a massif of the destructed rocks – an ancient ice threshold being a natural weir formed a lake. It can be passed on the screes (traces of the path) on the right on a course along the river flowing out from the lake up up to one and a half of an hour.
Before the tourists there is an Verhny circus of the glade with Syltran (3900 m) and Mukal (3899 m) summits. From the Mt. Mukal is leaving a spur forming a port side of the glade in the broad lowering of which there is the Syltran pass. The Syltrankel lake (in translation from Turkik – “a beautiful lake”) is situated at the altitude 2950 m in a rocky-scree hollow of the circus. The area of its water surface is about 30 h?. In sunny weather the lake with greenish water and white ice floats framed by rocky coasts and snow summits, admires with its severe beauty. Most of all impresses a fancy show, when sailing along the Syltran glade clouds, coming across an invisible airflow, mount uphill and are dispersed, not reaching the lake.
Lodginf for the nights can be organized on the northern coast or on a flat herbaceous slope under the Syltran pass. On the path going along the spring, flowing off the saddle it is possible to mount the pass in 40 minutes. This ascent doesn’t represent any technical difficulty as steepness of the slopes is not more than 25 degrees.
A broad panorama of neighboring mountains opens from the saddle (3050 m) the. On the background of eastern summit of Mt. Elbrus there are Chatkara, Irik, the Soviet Soldier, Balyk and etc. summits, there are seen big glaciers of the eastern spur of Mt. Elbrus, the ancient ?chkeryakolsky lava flow, slopes of the ridge Kyrtyk. In southeast opens distant snow summits of the Main Caucasian Range and of its spurs. This view is mostly effective in pinkish illumination of pre-dawn morning hours.
The descent way is an ascent way. It’ll take 4-5 hours to reach the road till the Verhny Baksan. It is necessary to mark, that the difference of altitudes of a reduced route makes 1500 m, therefore route is recommended to the tourists, elapsed preliminary acclimatization.

By Svanskaya path to the Mestia hut

(Verhny Baksan vil. -the Adyrsu river – climbing camp “Djailyk” – the Adyrsu glacier – the Mestia hut – Verhny Baksan vil. Expansion – 30 km, duration – 2-3 days.)
The route will get acquainted the tourists with Verhny reaches of the Adyrsu glade – a kingdom of eternal ice and snow.
The route up to the climbing camp “Djailyk” coincides with route No.10. Behind “Djailyk”, at the climbing camp “Ullutau”, by the edge of the forest, the road ends. Above the camp the path bends a spur and on moraine patches climbs above a riverbed of the river. In 1,5 – 2 hours the tourists mount pebbly sites of Mestia overnights (2500 m).
Below them is seen a tongue of Mestia glacier – a place of trainings of the climbers – beginners. More to the left, under a deep saddle of the pass Garvash, hangs down an icefall. Opposite it, on the left side of the glade is seen a glacier, above it -a saddlee of the Gumachi pass, lower along the glade, by high rocky Koiavgan-bashi summit, is viewed narrow snow lobby of the Koiavganaush pass. It seems vertical, though actually not so is abrupt, the mountain outlook distorts a true picture.
Just opposite, above the port side of the Mestia glacier, on a rock resembling a whale a little is the Mestia hut (3150 m) – a purpose of our hike.
To get places of night lodging pass a deep in a ridge holoow of the left side moraine of the glacier Adyrsu, then one must mount the glacier along the path. Above it there are some more equipped parkings.
To go on hiking one can only both at good visibility and reserve of forces and time. Along the glacier make for the “Tail of a Whale “. The glacier isn’t steep, but it demands attention. Having bent a rock at the left on a course, the tourists mount it behind along the scree slope.
It takes 8-9 hours of hiking till Verhny Baksan to the Mestia hut. One can overnight in the hut, and if it’soccupied you can put the tents. From the “Tail of a Whale” the whole glade ?dyrsu is visible. In the evening above Baksan village white clubs of mist’ll hang. Oblique rays of sunset, breaking between summits, light up bright spots on the slopes. “Tail of a Whale” itself situated in the middle of ice, creates a feeling of flight.
Above the hut there is the Mestia pass for a long time served as a way from Svanetia to Baksan. To cross the pass one needs special climbing equipment. It takes not less than 5 hours to return to the Verhny Baksan. The route can be passed even in three days, having spending a night in the Mestia lodgings. It can be joined the route No. 17, having spent 3 or 4 days.

To the glacier Yunom

(Verhny Baksan – the Adyrsu river – climbing camp “Djailyk” – the river Klumkolsu river – the glacier Yunom – the Verhny Baksan. Expansion – 30 km, duration – 2 days.)
The route gets acquainted with Verhny reaches of the Klumkol glade from where opens a view on the Adyrsu and Elbrus ridges. Way up to the climbing camp “Djailyk” coincides in Adyrsu. Along its left bank there is a path. Rather narrow glade has grown with a forest. Behind it opens the glade of the Koiavgan glacier in the Adyrsu ridge (see route No. 24). Soon the tourists pass on the right bank and past summer houses of shepherds make for the turn of the glade. Here in stone screes
The path is hardly visible. From the port side of the glade flow off springs from the glaciers. Behind it in the Adyrsu ridge opens the Djalovchat glade with a typical moraine row and tumulus of Mt. Elbrus on horizon.
The path leads to the final morain? of the Yunom glacier, to the small lake (3050 ?). By the lake there are sites with traces of bivouacs – lower kichkidarskue night lodgings. In the Verhny reaches of the glacier is the Golubev pass, leading to the Chegen gorge. It takes 304 hours of an ascent from the climbing camp “Djailyk” up to the night lodgings, and from the verhny Baksan village – up to 8 hours. It will 5 hours more for coming back to Verhny Baksan village.

Round the world trip Kyrtyk – Syltran

(The valley of the Kyrtyk river – the Ullukaya rock – the valley of the Mukal river – the Syltran pass (category IA) – the Syltrankel lake – Verhny Baksan village. Expansion – 42 km, duration – 3-4 days.)
From the Ullukaya rock one must go on the path along the left bank of the Kyrtyk river. In half an hour reach the mouth of the left big tributary – the Ulluesenchi river. In 40 minutes more one can reach to a kosh, near which there is a bridge. On the right bank, by the coalescence of Kyrtyk sources – the Mkyara and Subashi rivers there is an upper kosh. Rocky banks of the Subashi river make up picturesque gates. One must move along the Mkyara River – the left one on a course. In an hour from the Ullukaya and Esenchi mouth the tourists leave for a place of coalescence Mkyara river with a right tributary Mukal. Opposite it is well viewed the Mkyara glacier and a shoulder of an ancient ice threshold, from which to the left leaves a spur of the pendulous Mukal valley. The river flows off the spur like waterfalls.
Having crossed Mukal rocks, leave to an ice threshold, further mount it along a steep path. To the left there is a pendulous Mukal valley. From here the river directs downwards, in a beautiful rocky canyon. Then the valley is extending, becomes flat, on the left bank one can choose a place for camping. Here there are tangles of the Caucasian rhododendrons.
On front of it is well visible a scree saddle of the Syltran pass with narrow snow tongues under it. A path on the left leads under the pass. The river outflows on the right from final moraines of the Mukal glacier. One must mount up on snow tongues and screes along the spring flowing off the saddle (traces of the path). At the approaching to the pass steepness is growing till 30-35 degrees. One must go very cautiously, as a rockfall is possible on scree slopes with exits of destructed rocks. It’ll take up to 1,5 hours for the crossing the pass. The magnificent panorama opens from a flat, somewhere covered with snow saddle of the Syltran pass (category 1A, 3050m). The rise from the mouth of the Ullu-Esenchy river will take about 4.5 hours, backwards – an hour less.
This ring-type route is interesting for hiking in any direction, but it’s worth of noticing that the Syltransu valley is shorter and steeper than the Kyrtyk valleys. Therefore crossing the pass from Kyrtyk is more preferable to groups, not having an altitude acclimatization.

From the Baksan valley to Kislovodsk

(Verhny Baksan vil. – the Ullukaya rock – the Kyrtykaush pass (category 1A; in winter) – valley of the Islamchat river – narzan sources Jilysu – Bichesyn plateau – camp site “Valley of narzans” – Kislovodsk. Expansion – 105 km, duration – 7 days).
Road across the Kyrtykaush pass binds the Elbrus region with upper reaches of the Malka river. It is the easiest way north, in region of the Caucasian Mineral waters.
Path to the pass starts from a kosh, situated at the bottom of a pendulous valley (2400 m). After an hour ascent along herbaceous slope with steepness of 25 degrees the tourists pass a small spur and reach the bottom of the valley. It’ll take 2 hours for a further rise along the right bank of the river before turning the valley west (to the left). From here is well visible a saddle of the pass. Along the rocks cross to the right bank of the river, then along a scree and swamp places to the scree saddle of the pass (3256 m). It’ll take 4-5 hours for the route from the Kyrtyk valley.
Elbrus and Islamchat upper reaches, the Karakay ridge with summits Balyksubashi (3932 m) and Karakaya are well seen from the saddle. On the pass is set an obelisk in memory of the events of the Great Patriotic War in August, 1942. At that time across this mountain passage the Soviet soldiers evacuated 70 pupils of the children’s house in Armavir.
From the pass the tourists descend on ancient moraines along a spring flowing off the snow tongues under the saddles, in an hour they approach to the place of confluence the springs into the Islamchat river. An hour more is required along a good path of the left bank pass two summerhouses to get down the place of coalescence Islamchat and Shaukol. Here is situated a kosh near which there is a road from Tyrnauz to the Malka valley. Across the rivers the bridges are spanned.
Along the road, bending the northern extremity of the Karakai range, across a low Beresun pass (2470 m) in 2, 5 hours more leave for the valley o the Malka river. The road ends near a farm, by the bridge across the Karakayasu river – right tributary of the Malka river. From here well-developed path will lead out to a national health resort Djilysu (2380 m).
Warm narzan sources (22 degrees) leave for a surface on the right bank of the Malka river, opposite the mouth of Kyzylsu river, which crashing down from the altitude of 40 meters, forms the waterfall Sultan. A bit lower the right tributary – Karakulak spring – runs into the Malka river. Its gorges are called “Valley of Castles” because of bizarre remains on the slopes. On a herbaceous terrace of the right bank of ????? river, between narzan sources and the Karakulak spring, is a tent camp of an amateur health resort. 100 meters lower than the terrace the river is rushing upon picturesque rocky gates, and then it flows in a deep steep gorge, punched between a plateau and spurs of the rocky range.
Next day the hike is continued. Near an exit of sources the tourists pass the bridge to the left bank of Malka river and along a good path in 40 minutes mount the mouth step of the Kyxylkol valley. From the path opens a northern panorama of Mt. Elbrus. Both summits, vigorous glaciers, massifs of the hardened lava and green pastures are visible.
On a cozy terrace of the left bank Kyzylsu there are two cattle-sheds, to which gets down a road from the slopes. To the right of the path is a rock with an inscription of 1829. In that place there was a camp of the general Emmanuel expedition. Nearest two days the tourists have to move along the road. From the terrace they mount the slopes and, traversing them, in 2 hours leave for a Bichesyn plateau. On should have a store of water during the hike. From the plateau the steep gorge of the Malka river, Kynzhal (A Dagger) and Bermamyt summits are well seen. About the road the koshes meet. In 6-7 hours from Jilysu there is a descent into a deep woody Khabaz gorge. After the opened plateau verdure of the forest gladdens an eye in a pleasant way. The road descends the bottom of the gorge, where near a beautiful clean river on a forest valley there are good places for camping.
In hour and a half it’s possible Khabazskoye plateau about the river. From here it’s about 18 km to the Hasaut valley, in which there is a campsite “Valley of narzan sources”. There are about 20 sources of curative “athletic water” run there. Up to Kislovodsk – there is not more than 30 km. It is possible to reach there hitch-hiking or bus. In summer goes a trip bus to Nalchik.

Over the snow valley Djikaugenkez in basin of Kuban

(Verhny Baksan vil. – valley of the Subashi river -the Djikaugenkez pass (category 1B – the Djilisu narzan sources – the Irahitsyrt plateau – the pass Balkbashi 1A – the Hurzuk aul. Expansion – 90 km, duration – 6-9 days.)
From here in an hour along the path of the left bank of Kyrtyk river one can go up to an upper kosh by the coalescence of the Subashi and Mkyara rivers. Over the bridge pass to the right bank of the Subashi river and mount into a pendulous valley. From the path there are well visible upper reaches of the valley and the white summit Chatkara (3892 m). The saddle that is the nearest to the right is the Djikaugenkez pass.
In 3 hours of walking from the kosh is an ancient ice threshold, from a rocky slot of which the river is shooting up. Along moraine billows, screes and snow tongues, along the basic channel of Subashi river the tourists go up to the circus at the bottom of Mt. Chatkara. The path ends. Along the whole way of the Subashi valley one can find a bivouac place. The initial bivouac for overcoming the pass it’s better to organize in the upper circus (5 walking hours from the Ullukaya rock). From the bottom of the circus along snow tongues and screes with steepness of 25 degrees one must leave for a ravine formed by the Chatkara slopes and a small southeast spur of the Kyrtyk ridge. Along stony and in places covered with snow bottom of the ravine go up to the scree saddles of the pass (3520 ?). There is a walk hour from the circus. From the pass opens the view on the eastern summit of Mt. Elbrus, from which to Chatkara descends an ancient Achkeryakolsky lava flow, glaciers of northern slopes of a massif are well visible too. Below lies the snow valley Djikaugenkez.
The descent is carried out to the right along middle scree. Its steepness is up to 30 degrees. Then one must go along the glacier, taking great care, as it has small cracks. Step by step the glacier becomes flat and soon turns into a snow valley. One must move closer to the slope of the Kyrtyk ridge, as in the center of the valley there are “moors” – areas of the snow becoming limp. Step by step the Djikaugenkez snow plateau is replacing by the open glacier Kynchyrsyrt. The glacier is gently sloping. It’s quite easy to go along it. There are a lot of springs, cracks and ice funnels on its surface. On the right from under the Kynchyrsyrt river outflows the Karakayasu river. Moving direct north, the tourists go to the final morains of the glacier, where one can pitch camp. Then they descend at first along multi-coloured scree billows of volcanic origin, leaving to the right, to the river, further – along cattle track paths on herbaceous slopes. The hairpin bend road from the Bichesyn plateau to the Kyzylkol valley can serve as a guide point, which is well visible from here, below there are warm narzan sources. There are 5 hours from a saddle of the pass up to.
Purpose of the following daytime transition is the Balkbashi pass. From the Djilysu camp one must mount in the valley of the Kyzylkol river. Near the kosh there is a ferry to the right bank of the river. In the morning hours this ferry isn’t difficult to be overcrossed. Along the old road there is a rise to the Irahytsyrt plateau. Here on rich highmountain pastures graze flocks of the large cattle. From the plateau are well visible northern ice fields of Mt. Elbrus. In the west is viewed northern spur of Mt. Elbrus with saddles Balkbashi (3689 m) on the left on a border of the glaciers is seen even Buruntash (3072 m). Road goes in the direction of upper reaches Kyzylsu. In 5-6 hours from narzan sources the tourists go out to the river, under the saddle of the Buruntash pass. The bridge is absent, therefore it’s better to spend a night near the ferry to force the river early in the morning, in a low tide. Above the ferry is seen a tongue of the Ullunchiran glacier, from under which outflows the Kyzylsu rive.
After the ferry along the left bank morain? of the glacier starts an ascent. In hour the path turns west, to the saddle of the pass. The tourists traverse a stony slope is high above the glacier, and then along the scree, steepness of which is about 25 degrees, ascend the pass.
From the saddle opens a view on the valley of the Ulluhurzuk river, on northern and western slopes of the Elbrus massif. The descent goes at first along the crest of the ridge, going northwest away from the saddle, then along the first, western spur of this ridge in the valley of the spring. Not reaching mouth of the spring, path traverses the starboard of the valley and then it goes down the kosh on the right bank of the Bituktubekol river (2600m). The path on a descent is good. Moving along the valley, in an hour the tourists go out to a mineral source, the temperature of its waters is 18 degrees. You can stay for a night here. The transition from the saddle of the pass up to narzan will take 4 hours.
You can choose any bank to go from the source. There is a bridge over the river. The river flows in a canyon. In an hour and a half paths join near a sawmill, lower the coalescence of the Bituktubekol and Kukurtlu rivers. The river Ulluhurzuk starts from here. Along beautiful wood road in 4 hours come out in the Hurzuk aul. There are a lot of berries and mushrooms in the forest, there are also good places for a bivouac. From the Hurzuk aul goes a trip bus to Karachaevsk, the aul has a post office, a shop and a school.

Over the Koiavganaush pass

(Verhny Baksan – the Adyrsu river – the Koiavganaush pass (1 A),
3500 m – the Adylsu river -the Elbrus village. Expansion – 30 km, duration – 3 days).
The Koiavganaush pass joins two picturesque valleys of right tributaries of the Baksan river – Adyrsu and Adylsu.
The way up to the monument to the climbers in the Adyrsu valley coincides with a route No.10. Not reaching up to the bridge leading to the monument, one must turn to the path of the left bank of the Adyrsu river. About in forty minutes there is a spring flowing off from the Koiavgan glacier. Behind it there is a last island of the forest. On the right side of the Adyrsu valley is seen an entry to the Klumkolsu gorge (see route No.17), and a bit higher there are constructions of the climbing camp “Djailyk”.
Along the left bank of the spring on a green slope coils a path. In 1, 5 – 2 hours it leads to the valley of the Koiavgan glacier (6-7 hours from the Verhny Baksan). One can stay for a night at equipped platforms by the spring. From the night lodging are well visible the Klumkolsu valley and the glaciers of its upper reach.
Long transition lay ahead next day. One must leave for a route not later than 7 a. m. From the bivouac the path climbs up a steep crest of the left bank moraine and is stretching out to the tongue of the glacier. Rather steep snow tongues lead to an ice. The glacier in this place is clear, but a bit higher there are cracks. They should be bypassed closer to the middle of the glacier.
The pass is on the left side of an upper circus, by the rocks Koiavganbashi. The way from the bivouac up to the pass take-off takes 2 hours. Closer to the tourists is a saddle with a snow eaves on a crest. It is a false pass. Over it the climbers go up to the summit VIA-Tau raising on the right side of the circus. The real pass is a bit farther, behind a small rock. A scree lobby leads there by steepness about 30 degrees (see Route No.16) with snow sites.
One should mount along hairpin-bend roads on a small black scree, trying not to drop down rocks on the people going below. Small stones move down under legs easily, therefore the rise demands a lot of strength. If a group goes to meet, it should be passed, having waited behind the rocks not to get under a rockfall. Closer to the saddle the tourists leave under the slopes of Mt. Koiavganbashi, bending (45 degrees) a snow tongue at the very crest of the pass. The rise from the bivouac takes 4-6 hours.
The pass is a fine survey point, one of the best in the Elbrus region. On the ascent side there are clearly visible the upper reaches with the Adyrsu and Mestia glaciers of the same name (2 distant snow tongues). The right part of panorama is occupied by the Ullutauchan wall, more to the left is the Mestia pass, and behind a low snow summit Sarukolbashi is seen the Granovsky pass. On the side of descent the snow tumulus of Elbrus is seen.
A short descent along a small scree leads to the left to a snow tongue and to a small glacier. Along its righbank morain? one must descended to the tongue, whence along moraines and snow tongues go to the right to a path. It’ll take 2-2, 5 hours to get from the saddle. Heading for a green ground, go out to the spring, and along it go to the rightbank morain? of the Jankuat glacier.
From the moraine crest is seen a vast glacier and surrounding it summits.
The path goes along a ridge of a moraine. By its lower edge one must cross over the spring on the rocks and go down to the bridge over the Jankuat river. The bridge is not firm, but nearby is a water-measuring station with a cord ferry. Soon tourists come out to the valley of the “Green Hotel”, where they settle down for a night. It takes 4 hours to descent from the pass, and a daytime transition lasts 8-10 hours.

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