Meeting in airport Tbilisi or Minvody/Nalchik. Transfer to hotel. The road from Min Vody to Nalchik takes about one and half hour. Hotel accommodation 3* in the center. Meeting with the guide. Preparation of equipment, leaving unnecessary stuff in the city, registration copies.

Evening excursion around the city. Dinner in the center.

Early transportation from Tbilisi or Nalchik to village Kazbegi-Stepantsminda 1750 m. Accomodation in hotel 2-3*. Lunch and hike till Church Gergeti 2170 m. Here starts the route to the place behind Sabertse pass 3000 m, after rest radial hike to climb easy ridge nearby. Church Gergeti 2170 m — pass Sabertse 2800 m. The distance from end of road near church to the pass is not long, if we have some spare time, we can even go to the radial ascent to a nearby ridge, climb, views.

Early in the morning departure from Nalchik, driving through North Ossetia till border with Georgia. Crossing the border in Verkhniy Lars which can take 2-3 hours or more and arrival in Stepantsminda in the afternoon, where should begin the path to the mountain. Cars may go through the border fast, or can probably slower. If we leave early from Nalchik, this factor can be minimized, to have reserve time. Because that day we will have to climb to 3000 meters. From Nalchik to the Borders, in general, not too long, about three hours driving. This is a very convenient way of communication between Russia and Georgia through Georgian Military Road, it passes through the Daryal Gorge (by the way, through this gorge passes the river Terek, here it starts), this road connects Europe and Asia for many centuries. Then it goes to the Cross Pass, behind it Gudauri, Pasanauri, Ananuri, and if you go further, Tbilisi.

From the road we can already see Kazbek, and no less attraction of these places Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi Church Gergeti. View of the village Stepantsminda from the road to Gergeti :

Gergeti a small village just above the village of Stepantsminda, located on the right bank of river Chkheri tributary of the river Terek.
On the way to the Gergeti Church (women just go home to Gergeti, we go far beyond and above) :

The temple can be reached by two ways: either by good dirty road laid in serpentines (about 5 km from vill. Gergeti), or by a steep winding path, which begins on the edge of the village and goes straight to the church. Every day, many pilgrims from different countries make this mini-climbing, most of them by cars that you can hire in Stepantsminda, the driving will take something around half an hour. Either walk this way by foot on the path, it takes something like two hours, but, apparently, it is possible faster, we got to the church from the beginning of our journey in Stepantsminda in forty-five minutes. The trail passes through pine forest and the air is simply gorgeous, you breathe deeply and freely.

The difference in height of the transition about 450 m (Stepantsminda 1750 m, Church 2170 m).

The main building of the Temple Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi) is the Georgian name for ‘Holy Trinity’, all of the Trinity Churches of Georgia are called so, but Tsminda Sameba in Gergeti the oldest of them. The temple was founded in the 14th century near the road through the Daryal Gorge at an altitude of 2170 m. During the invading of the Persians in the 18th century here was hiding the precious relics of Georgia. Anyway here periodically was hiding anything needed to hide, in the times of trouble eras.

The Church is functioning and worth to visit to see and to buy souvenirs.
Inside the church and in the surrounding areas, in spite of not very comfortable weather, there are many tourists speaking different languages, from Polish to Japanese. Next to the temple a spring with holy water, inside the church you can buy souvenirs, light a candle, try to ask heaven’s for blessing before going to Kazbek.

From the Church opens stunning views of Mount Kazbek and the spaces surrounding it, it is visible the track going to the pass Sabertse, which is our current path :

After resting a little bit near the Church, we go further. Our task today is to reach the place above pass Sabertse. To the pass leads a well-trodden path with a slight gradient for the most part.
Only near the pass, it becomes less comfortable, there are stones and sand dust. It is getting colder. Noticeably colder, and somewhere at the bottom of everything comfortably lying Stepantsminda :

In two hours we reach Sabertse Pass (2800 m), from here opens stunning views of Gergeti Glacier and Kazbek.
After another forty minutes we get to the place on the moraine of the Gergeti glacier. From the pass traverse the grassy slope and then across the stream. (The photo shows the trail and the pass itself).

Here convenient site for the tents, somewhere even was built walls of stones. Water nearby in the stream. Here, too, it is wind blowing very strongly, but the moraine and the slopes lying next make a little harbor. Moving from church to 3000 m takes about 3-4 hours. In the morning on 3000 m :

Breakfast and collecting all equipment and lugage. Driving by 4wheel cars till Church Gergeti 2170 m. Here starts the route to the place behind Sabertse pass 3000 m. Church Gergeti 2170 m — pass Sabertse 2800 m takes about 2 hours. Then starts moving through the glacier Gergeti, a slight rise on the glacier till the cracks, transition of cracks, climbing up the moraine to weather-station 3700 m (from 2800 m is another about 3-4 hours). At the weather station its possible to establish a camp, because its building does not work now as the weather-station and used as a hut for climbers in summer season and called now Bethlemi hut 3675 m. Conditions not the best, but a roof and wooden bunks with mattresses present. I.e. it’s possible to set up a camp, or locate in the building of weather-stations. We have accomodations in huts and meals with cook. Lunch. A small radial acclimatization to the height of 3900 m to the building of the chapel. From where excellent views of the glacier Gergeti. Descent to hut Bethlemi.

Weather-station, view from the glacier :
Actually, the station, as the meteorological is not working for a long time, it is now a shelter for climbers and other wanderers of the universe in this part. In summer season you can stay next to its walls in tents or put your own tent for an additional fee or you can stay inside.
View to the station from the top :

Ascent to 4300 m Kazbek ice plateau (takes about 4 hours), where its possible to set a summit camp, return to Bethlemi hut.

Here it is necessary to explain the point. There are two options of summit climbing: from ice plateau 4300 m, or directly from the meteorological station 3700 m. Everyone has its own pros and cons. Overnight on the plateau could be a hard trial in case of strong wind that blows there periodically. And recomended only for experienced high mount climbers and groups. But if there is a well-established good tents severity can be minimized. In general, it is the only negative, which is more than covered by positive sides ‘fast’ ascension and good preparation in terms of acclimatization. Climb from the plateau to the top can take from 3 to 5 hours. No need to go out in dark, there is a possibility to sleep enough and not to walk at night with exhausting, long night and day.
Climbing from weather stations has only one advantage stable overnight in conditions more comfortable than a tent on the ice plateau. But the ascent will take much more time and much more tiresome for physical and psychological forces. From here to the top at least 7-8 hours, and approximately 3-4 hours for descent. Leaving at night in the dark, despite the best conditions for sleep, but time for it much less and ascent with the lack of sleep harder much more than from plateau with more sleep. This option is better to have as a reserve, in case of failure to camp on a plateau, because of the current extremely unfortunate weather conditions, with strong wind and the inability to dig adequate ‘hole’ under the tent. In the case of this variant, day 4 will go as acclimatization to 4300, with the return at the meteorological station. Day 5 will be a day of rest. Day 6 summit day with the start from the meteorological station at around 2 o’clock in the morning.

Setting of camp on the ice plateau on 4300 m is optional depending on the preperation of the group and wether conditions. It is necessary to jointly (which is useful for all in order to acclimatize) prepare a place for tents dig a hole deep enough (so that even the wind could not affect the health of the tents), can be put windproof walls from small snow bricks for each tent. Setting the tents (not difficult). In summit camp stay one of the guides in order to monitor the safety of the camp.

Food. Breakfast in the hut, lunch in the summit camp (snacks, or, if there is the cook, quite a good lunch due to bringing stove and gas, all others will be busy installing camp), dinner on returning to hut weather-station.

On the way to the plateau. Height already above 4000 m.
Kazbek from the side. The wind at the top :

After two and a half or three hours from weather-stations we reach the plateau. Snow is deep but pressed. The height is about 4300 m. The empty field, no trace of human only the trail traverses the slope just above.

Ascent to 4300 m, small training in the snow with an ice pick.

As already mentioned, with a well-established camp overnight here quite safe. It happens winds that can carry or break a tent, but it is mainly due to poor-quality installation of the camp and hope for good weather, or not suitable tents quality for these conditions. It would be nice to have earplugs just in case, because of the wind which somehow makes the tent to ‘noise’, it can interfere to sleep and force to wake up.

Kazbek plateau. Possible Summit camp.

Climbing the eastern (main) summit of Kazbek 5033 m, descent on a plateau 4300 m, the removal of the camp, the descent into Stepantsminda 1750 m.

Wake up at the earliest time with the expectation that we can have time to eat breakfast and get out when it is already possible to go without lamps.
The ascent to the east, main summit of Mount Kazbek can take three hours from Platea or 7-8 hours from meteo-station with condition of the well-being of all in the group and good weather. Technical difficulties on the route may be few, but as a rule, they are not so global insurmountable. This is a couple of cracks in the gap ‘plateau saddle’, the rise from the saddle to the top. It’s not so long, and in summer season well-trodden path, with steps in the ice. To have an ice ax and helmet, however, is necessary for each of the climbers.

Part of the route goes in the shadow of the mountain, can be cold and windy. Traverse to the saddle not difficult but deep snow in some places. On the saddle can be windy, blowing strongly. From here to the top not far through ice slope. Moving up the slope. In some places open ice. The slope is maximum forty degrees in some places. Of course, if ‘skate’ and fly, this degree is enough to fly non-stop. Soon appears our Eastern peak, with its ice slope.

On the horizon appears Elbrus and five thousand meters Bezengi mounts Koshtan-Tau, Dykh-Tau, visible Bezengi Wall.
Elbrus seems so close, but its 185 km distance straight away.
Below us the total Caucasus. On West stretches Main Caucasian Ridge. We see all and everything. Bezengi Massive at a glance and to them about 110-115 km. The descent to the plateau 4300 meters takes about an hour.

Descent to the camp. Lunch (the guide contacts cook by the radio station in advance so that to the coming of the group the food must be ready, to save time). Climbing Kazbek from the plateau does not take a lot of energy (relatively) so today we can still have time to go down, if all in the group feel well down till Stepantsminda. Overnight at the hotel in Stepantsminda.

Reserve day in case of bad weather, or reserve intermediate night on descent (in weather-station hut), if the strength of the group will not allow descending from the summit till Stepantsminda 1750 m.

Transfer: Stepantsminda, Georgia — Tbilisi or Nalchik, KBR, the Russian Federation. Sightseen city tour.