• Georgia - Kazbek

This program of climbing both Caucasian Stratovolcanoes, five thousand, provides an excellent opportunity to climb the peaks of the legendary Caucasian ice giants, along the way getting acquainted with the sights of the unique nature and culture of this amazing territories. The route to Kazbek is along the classic route from the South, from the Georgian side, the route to Elbrus along the path of the first ascent is from the North more preferable in such expedition.

A little about these Mountains.

Mount Kazbek, Mkinvartsveri, 5033 meters an extinct stratovolcano, is the most eastern five thousand meter mount of the Caucasus, located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus, on the border between Russia and Georgia, in the eastern part of the ridge Khokhskiy. The last eruption occurred in 650 year b.c. (written in wikipedia). As on Elbrus, here also hundreds of climbers in summer season, and like Mount Elbrus, Kazbek has its own views and plans and can make severe unforgivable corrections to ANY plans and desires of people. Even lesser height than the Elbrus, Kazbek has other inimitable ‘surprises’. In general, it is physically easier then Elbrus (it is less for 600 m, and it is a strong factor), but technically more difficult. There are cracks and crevasses on the glacier route, there is a talus conglomerate, shooting stones and clouds of dust on track, there may be very severe wind forces on the summit camp and on route of climbing.

Elbrus, Mingitau, 5642 (5621) m – needs no introduction, it is the highest mountain in Europe, a stratovolcano, where climbing any of its peaks can become a serious test even for experienced and trained climbers. The main decisive factors here are the altitude and the weather (provided that the participants are in good physical condition, which is the very first decisive factor in any mountains). The influence of the altitude factor is minimized by acclimatization on Kazbek and the ascent of Kazbek itself. Weather – we will catch the weather, we will, as always, try to negotiate with it. For a successful ascent of Elbrus, it is enough to relatively hit three conditions: a physically healthy body, good weather, optimal acclimatization. All that participants should worry about when planning a climb is the first point. Elbrus can ask more seriously than Kazbek from everyone at once, even what they do not have. Although it is a dormant volcano, sometimes it snores a lot in its sleep. It is important to always remember that neither here nor anywhere else in the mountains are there not TOO prepared people. That is why the Mountain begins not at the moment of departure from the base camp, but already now, when you are reading these lines and are still only planning your adventures. And if training is not underway yet, then it should begin today. More precisely, it should have begun yesterday.

About the program slightly — this 14 days program should not be seen as a separate climbing on the two mountains, but as one total expedition designed to achieve the aim of the ascents to BOTH five thousand meter tops with a maximum effectively waste of forces. This current program, if we consider climbing Kazbek and Elbrus not separately, is more generally logical. In this case, climbing Kazbek has two purposes that are completely equivalent:
Climbing the eastern peak of Mount Kazbek 5033 m.
Acclimatization to climb Elbrus.
There may be several options and variants, and each of them can be more convenient then the other, so we have tried to make this itinerary most advantageous and feasible. The itinerary has two reserve days in case of extreme weather, or in case we’ll have to split one day into two, due to the need to reduce working day and take a rest. It is important to understand — this is the basic DESIRED schedule, which would be a good option to follow, from which we can draw on. In the detailed description of the routes is explained, which part can be slightly adjusted according desires, or which have to be corrected because of the conditions of the mountains or the weather.

About airports of arrival and departure — arrive on first day can be Georgia or Russian side. In terms of distance and kilometres to mount Kazbek South side there is no difference to drive from Nalchik or from Tbilisi. But we have a border and in case of arrival to Russia we need to make a double visa. We make such Visa Invitation with 2 dates and then you can cross the border 2 times.

How its better and more convenient to do the logistics. As mentioned before the most logical first to go Kazbek (as it is half kilometer lower then Elbrus), it will work as acclimatization for Elbrus, and it will be easier then on Elbrus. Elbrus — more difficult mountain, and heavier the ascent itself physically. Options can be a lot, and «we can adjust things on the way». This is a basic version of the program, from which we will build on, the program itself in action can make its own adjustments, we tried to clarify where and what. The main point — the ascent from the Georgian side is easier, faster, more logical, classic, do not need passes for border zone, and so on. Alternatively, arrive to Georgia and from there start. Then, after Kazbek transfer to Nalchik, overnight, from there start to Elbrus. Its a bit different from Elbrus usual program from the one that «Elbrus from the north or south» because the group is already acclimatized to the altitude of 5000 m. Departure to airport from MinVody or again through Tbilisi also possible. After 8 days on mount Kazbek means that for Elbrus part 6 days is enough as the group is acclimatized already. In this program for Elbrus climb we also recommend more North side to make it finished in such a way. But we offer both options South or North face.

Kazbek from glacier Gergeti

Kazbek from the South — Georgia side. Elbrus from the North or South — Russian side.

Day 1. Arrival to airport Tbilisi. Transfer to hotel. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. Transfer to village Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). Accommodation at the hotel. Preparation of equipment.
Day 3. Transfer from village Kazbegi (Stepantsminda, Georgia) 1750 m by four wheel cars till Church Gergeti 2170 m. Hiking over the pass Sabertse 2800m through moraine glacier Gergeti 3000m. Accommodation in Bethlemi hut 3675 m.
Day 4. Climbing till 4000 m to Kazbek ice-field plateau. Return to Bethlemi hut.
Day 5. Climb Ortsveri, 4156 m. Return to Bethlemi hut. Or rest day before summit.
Day 6. Climbing the eastern (main) summit of Kazbek 5047 m, descent on a plateau 4300 m, the descent into the hut to village Stepantsminda 1750 m.
Day 7. Reserve day in case of bad weather, or reserve intermediate night on descent (in weather-station hut), if the strength of the group will not allow to descend from the summit till Kazbegi 1750 m on previous day. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 8. Transfer: Stepantsminda, Georgia — Nalchik, Russia. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 9.
Option 1: Transfer to Elbrus north side huts 2600 m on plateau Irahiktyuz (Emanuel glade). Accommodation in huts.
Option 2: Transfer to Elbrus south side hotel. Accommodation and Dinner.
Day 10.
Option 1: The transition from the north base-camp 2600 m to summit-camp 3800 m. Accommodation in huts.
Option 2: Ascent to tourist’s hotel Gara-Bashy (3800 m) by cable-ways Elbrus and Gara-Bashi. Accommodation in barrels Gara-Bashi. Lunch. Acclimatize till Shelter-11 4000 m. Return to the Gara-Bashi base. Dinner.
Day 11. Rest day or reserve day.
Day 12. Ascent of Mount Elbrus West summit 5642 m.
Day 13. North side : descent to the base camp of 2600 m, leaving to Nalchik. South side: descent to hotel in glade Cheget.
Day 14. Transfer to airport. Departure flights.

Kazbek map

*The tour can be realized with a group from 4 pax.

Necessary personal equipment :
High Mountain plastic and/or double boots
Crampons
Harness + two or three carabiners
Ice-axe
Helmet
Trekking poles
Sunglasses (it is better to have two, one spare if breakage of main because the lack of it means no climbing).
Headlamp with spare (and preferably two) set of batteries.
Full list of equipment and clothes please see in a tab.

Booking